Any metallic objects that can rust or corrode will stain your pool liner. This includes anything from hairpins to coins left for extended periods on your pool liner.

Lawn fertilizers, leaves, debris, or anything else that contains pigments can stain your liner, leaving a “bathtub ring” around the water line. This ring can easily be removed with TLC cleaner, and a bit of elbow grease.

A new in-ground pool can cost anywhere from $50,000 and up. This depends on size the size of your new pool, and added options such as lights, heating, and concrete. There are also on-ground pools, which are different than above-ground pools, that can cost as little as $30,000. On-ground pools are built much in the same way as in-ground pools.

No. We perform all of our own work in-house, with experienced and knowledgeable staff.

We carry all major brands, including Hayward, Jandy, Kafko, Pentair, Sta-rite, HPI, Zodiac, and Feherguard. We also have the ability to source almost any other brand, at your request.

Vinyl lined steel with a semi hard bottom. Why? Hydraulic clay and ground movement in Manitoba make vinyl lined pools the best option for pools in Manitoba. Other types of pools will crack, shift and leak. Concrete will crack, leaving sharp edges; this is why we have a semi hard bottom. Hydraulic clay expands with moisture and freezing. We can't control this behavior so we need a pool that can move with the ground.

We have references available in all areas of Winnipeg and many parts of Manitoba. Please inquire directly.

Yes. We can make your pool deeper or shallower while we're in the process of replacing the liner. Depth changes will typically result in the loss of the main drain, but many new pools are installed without them so it will not be a problem.

Yes, there are a lot of lighting options available. It's best to do this when the liner is out. Click here for lighting options.

Interview the salesperson and company thoroughly. It is important that they can provide references in your area. You can also ask what type of experience they have and what their main focus of business is, like swimming pool installations, repairs or renovations. Do they have required liability insurances to do construction and do they carry workers comp. Ask what type of experience the workers doing the job have. Ask the salesperson if they will be onsite while the work is being performed. Ask the salesperson if they have personal experience doing construction. Are you confident that the prospective pool company will treat your backyard with respect?

If the movement hasn't affected the proper operation of your pool then this is largely an aesthetic problem. It is possible to replace the coping and/or pour a new deck to address any visual impact of the shifting. If the flow of water has problems we can lower the skimmer to return the pool to normal function. We recommend addressing the problem that caused the shifting when considering other repairs.

Usually you can change the shape of your pool. We can also add a staircase, change the deck, and upgrade the pool equipment while replacing the liner.

We offer onsite sales meetings with the customer, while the trend is going towards over the counter sales. Our materials are chosen on quality before price, which means you get the best products available. We also run a low overhead company with our headquarters located just outside the perimeter. These savings are passed onto the customer who is important. Since quality is an act and not a habit we treat each job as if we are working on our own backyard.

Every estimate will vary slightly in work being performed. Attention to detail costs more and quality is then built into the final product. It is very important to compare apples to apples. Sometimes companies are hopeful that they can provide you a high price and you will not shop around because you have been a loyal customer for years. Other times quality of the materials and workmanship are variables in the overall cost. Companies that have huge overhead of inventory have to charge more to cover their costs. We strive to offer the highest quality product and workmanship at a fair price.

Most of the time if there are structural problems with the concrete, installing a vinyl liner in most cases will fix it. Please contact us for an onsite inspection of your swimming pool.

If you have a vinyl lined pool, the answer is NO. Draining your pool causes your liner to shrink and put undue stress on it once it is refilled with water. Our divers can fix your problem underwater. Contact us today

This can almost always be repaired using liner lock. The pool liner will have to be stretched back into the track and then secured with liner lock. There is a chance that the liner can tear during this process but only if it is very brittle.

The answer is most cases is no. The diver will need to visually see your pool liner to check for leaks and make a quality repair. Your pool should be cleaned up before the diver arrives.

Yes. Patching, replacing sections or replacing the complete deck requires us to have a look at it. Email or call to set up a free estimate.

No, if the liner or pipes can be fixed before the snow flies, you will be saving yourself a huge headache come spring time. Leaking water left over winter can cause pipes to crack, soften pool bases, crack concrete and even push in pool walls.

This is a common problem and is a result of air being sucked into the pool plumbing. There are lots of places for entry but 90% of the time it is from the skimmer or the pumps strainer basket cover. If the pool water level is low or the flappy thing (called the weir) in the skimmer throat is stuck, this will cause air bubbles in your pool. Check the pump strainer basket O-ring for cracks by stretching it or bending it. Also, make sure the sealing faces where the O-ring sits are clean. You can also check the winterizing plugs on the pump to make sure the seals are not cracked on those as well. You can use silicone on the winterizing plug even with a dried out seal. If you have tried these steps and the air bubbles continue, you may require a pressure test to check your pool plumbing for leaks.  Contact us today!

Pumps usually leak around seals or connections. If the pump seals are leaking, the water will usually make its way into the motor or drip out the bottom. This usually results in rusted bearings and eventually a noisy, seized pump. If the pool pump connections are leaking, it is typically the pressure side which comes out of the top of the pump. This is usually caused from the threaded in fitting warping from heat and freeze/thaw in Winnipeg or improper sealing and/or undersized fittings originally. The best fix is to unscrew the fitting (which usually involves removing clamps or quick couplers) and replace with a PVC fitting. The threads are tapered and should tighten before they bottom out. We use silicone to seal the threads and teflon tape. If there are too many connections and pipes that need replacing you can call us and we can help you.

This usually means that your pool has lost water over the winter or the liner could have ripped in the spring time. It is best to have it checked out by professionals.

Your filter may need to be backwashed in the case of a sand filter or your pump may need to run for a longer duration daily. With a cartridge filter your cartridges may need to be cleaned or your chemicals may be out of balance. Cloudy pool water is usually an early indicator of algae formation however; cloudy water can be caused from a lot of factors. Too high ph, bad pool circulation, not enough chlorine, too high calcium are a few common reasons. With proper pool chemistry a UV pool sanitation system can help maintain your pool and make it more enjoyable and healthier to swim in.

Often times a torn or ripped vinyl pool liner is caused from ice damage over winter. We have a department that repairs rips in liners.  Contact us to review your options.

If you pool pump is not priming either your skimmer is plugged, you have not enough water in skimmer/pool basket or it can be plugged with leaves and debris, may have air leaks in suction lines, your pump is elevated above the pool water level taking longer to prime, or the valve on the front of your pump may be leaking air.
Cartridge Filter: To clean a cartridge filter, remove the filters, soak in a cleaning solution then hose off or pressure wash (on low pressure so filter pleats do not tear). Your goal is to clean between the pleats of the cartridge filter paper elements. Before cleaning either types of filter, always remember to shut off your heater/pump, drain out the water, and close all valves before removing the filter head.

Keep your pool full of water. Rain, run-off water, or a leaky pool liner can float your pool liner. Excess rain water that has floated your liner will eventually soak into the ground and your liner will go back down. If your pool has been losing water prior to your liner floating, then it is likely that a pool leak is causing your liner to float. The problem should get fixed as soon as possible and that will cure the liner floating problem. Most likely your liner has a hole in it or your underground pipes could be leaking (less common). We specialize in vinyl liner repair even under water!

In-ground liners are typically 30mil thick. This is the industry standard for the longest lasting liner. A thicker would be less elastic and more likely to tear whereas a thinner liner will be less resistant to punctures.

Usually a sand/cement floor that should be hard and smooth or a vermiculite/cement base that is usually found on older pools.

Unfortunately, most swimming pool owners wait until their vinyl pool liner fails before they decide to replace it. The loss of pool water through pool liner failure, often results in significant damage to the underlying structure of the swimming pool. It is wise to replace your pool liner proactively when it is nearing the end of its useful life. If your liner has rips longer than a couple inches or if your liner is losing elasticity and becoming brittle (look for horizontal cracking above the water line) you should replace it.

All our pool liners carry a lifetime prorated warranty covering manufacturing defects and seam separation. Our services carry a 3 year warranty on workmanship.

If the pool has been resurfaced (usually) it takes three days for the new bottom to harden. Touching the bottom sooner could leave permanent dents underneath the liner. You can swim right away if you can avoid touching the bottom, but if you can't then you'll need to hold off for three days before swimming.

Normal? No. The liner should be wrinkle free for the entire useful life of the liner. Wrinkles indicate a problem. The most likely causes of wrinkles are: 1. The liner was poorly installed. 2. Excess ground water has shifted the liner. 3. Low water PH has expanded the liner. It's OK to live with the wrinkles as long as they aren't causing a problem with vacuuming or other pool maintenance. More importantly, the cause of the wrinkles should be addressed. Call us for a sump pit install or ground water control system. If the wrinkles are causing maintenance issues or you just can't stand the sight of them, most of the time this means a liner replacement.

After signing an agreement, lead time will typically range from 1 week to 1 month. Liners are custom measured then ordered, manufactured, and shipped specifically for your pool. We book on a first come, first serve basis.

The best way to get more life out of your vinyl swimming pool liner is to take good care of it. In particular, make sure to:

• Always use a pool cover in the winter (only on in ground pools).
• Always maintain proper pool chemistry.
• Always keep the pool full of water when it's in use to prevent sun damage.
• Keep the part of the liner that's above the water clean by using a pool vinyl liner cleaner.
• Use a solar blanket when the swimming pool is not in use.
• Never pump the water out of the pool lower than your winterizing level.
• You could add a ultra violet sanitation system to greatly reduce chemical usage which will substantially extend the life of your liner.
• If you follow these simple guidelines you will be sure to enjoy your vinyl-lined swimming pool for many, many years.
• Call for a free estimate.

Having wrinkles and a floating liner can be an indicator of excessive ground water or a hole in the vinyl pool liner. The wrinkles can sometimes be removed with the use of a plunger, other times the water can be lowered and the wrinkles removed. The best place to start is by having the liner fixed or the water from behind the liner removed. The liner will then go down and back into place. If you are left with wrinkles, do not pump your pool out dry and try to start over, this usually results in a damaged liner. Contact a pool professional for further assistance.

Yes. Using a product called TLC made by GLB (not hardware store TLC cleaner). It can be used to clean stairs, coping and it's safe for the liner. It is an acid so be careful not to make any contact with your concrete or it will etch it.

Keep your pool full of water. Rain, run-off water, or a leaky pool liner can float your pool liner. Excess rain water that has floated your liner will eventually soak into the ground and your liner will go back down. If your pool has been losing water prior to your liner floating, then it is likely that a pool leak is causing your liner to float. The problem should get fixed as soon as possible and that will cure the liner floating problem. Most likely your liner has a hole in it or your underground pipes could be leaking (less common). We specialize in vinyl liner repair even under water!

Depending on the size of your pool pump, it will burn between 1,000 and 1,600 watts per day. This equates to $2.50-$3.50 per day in Winnipeg if ran 24/7, with our current hydro utility rate.

Our recommendation is to use the smallest pump possible for your pool, or to invest in a variable speed pump. These pumps only cost about $0.50-$0.75 per day to run.

When your pool pump is making loud noises, the seals are most likely shot, or the motor bearings are rusted and pitted.

Replace the bearing and seals if possible, but it is usually better to buy a new pool pump if your existing pump is an older model.

This is a common question, and it has a common answer. 95% of the time, the answer is no.

New pool pumps are more efficient, and have better designs, allowing more water to flow per horsepower than older pumps. Providing that your pump was originally sized properly, replacing with the same amount of horse power is usually sufficient.

When a larger pool pump is installed with the same piping and filter used, the pressure in the pump will increase, along with the electrical bill. The filter is put into overdrive, but does not clean any better or faster.

For the same price as a larger pump, you can purchase the same size pump as your existing pump.

Most often, a pool pump will buzz or hum from sitting still over winter, or if the motor capacitor is failing.

Usually, pool pumps contain a cap on the end of the motor that can be popped off, allowing users to manually rotate the motor while the power is off to free up stuck facets from the winter.

When the motor takes longer to start and makes continuous buzzing noises, the capacitor probably needs replacing. If your pump is new, ensure that the correct voltage is being applied to the motor. The voltage will be either 120v or 240v, and the wiring diagram will be displayed on the motor.

Your sand filter will not clean live algae. The pool water will need to be shocked or flocked to bring algae to the pool bottom to be vacuumed up. Ensure that you follow the flock chemical manufacturer’s directions on the container.

Your sand filter should be backwashed once the pressure reaches above 20-25 psi. Pressure is different for every pool, filter, pipe size, plumbing arrangement, and heating combination, and depends on your particular combination.

The psi can range from 15-30 before it requires backwashing. Start with a baseline pressure, which is the pressure your filter runs at right after it has been backwashed. Once that pressure increases 7-10 psi, it is best to backwash it for 2 minutes, or until the clear sight glass bulb is clean. Then, rinse for 1 minute.

Backwashing sand filters too frequently is counter-productive, as the accumulated dirt trapped in the sand actually aids in trapping the finer particles in the pool water.

Sand Filter: To clean a sand filter, use a sand filter cleaning solution. This solution can be poured into your pump basket when it is turned off. The valve on the front of the pump must be closed before you can start the pump again, for about 10 seconds. Then, you can open the lid of the pump basket, and dilute the remnants of the solution with water.

This process will pump the solution into the filter, where it should sit overnight to cleanse the sane. After 12 hours, turn on the pump with the filter handle in the backwash position for 2 minutes, then switch the handle to rinse for 1 minute.

Always remember to turn the pump off in between filter handle position changes.

Cartridge Filter: Remove the filter cartridges, and soak in a cleaning solution. Hose or off the filters, using low pressure so that the filter pleats do not tear. The goal is to clean between the pleats of the cartridge filter paper elements.

Before you clean either type of filter, ensure that you shut off the heater and pump, drain the water, and close all valves before removing the filter head.

This depends on how much dirt is going through your filter. Sand filters can work for a few years, up to 20 years with the same sand.
This usually depends on maintaining a balanced pool chemistry, and opening up the waste valve when vacuuming up debris and algae.
Some say that the sands sharp edges wear down over time, and cease to work as effectively, meaning that it should be replaced sooner rather than later.
Ensure that you use filter cleanser to make sure the sand is not clumped together. Clumped sand causes the water to channel through the sand, and not actually be filtered.

There are various reasons that a sand filter pressure is high, such as:

• Your filter may need to be backwashed.
• The drains in your filter could be heat damaged from turning off the pump while the gas heater is running.
• The gauge might be frost damaged from not being removed during Winnipeg winters. This frost damage may cause the gauge to max out and be permanently damaged. Luckily, new gauges are under $10, and can be replaced in less than 5 minutes.

Your sand filter dial head has the following positions:

Filter position: Used when you are running your pool, and need the pool water to be filtered. This is the most commonly used position.

Backwash position: This position is only used when your filter is dirty and you want to clean the sand in the filter. Water is reversed through the sand, and lifts out any dirt. It is then discharged out of the waste pipe.

Rinse Position: Used only after backwashing. Does same thing as the "filter" position, only water goes out of the waste pipe instead of back into pool.

Winterize position: Used in winter to relieve pressure off the seals, so they don't flatten and leak over time. This position also lets air into the filter, to help drain the water out of your filter during winterizing.

Whirlpool position: Used when you want the water to bypass your filter. It is most handy when you’re diagnosing pressure problems, or checking how dirty your sand is.

Drain position: Use this position when you want the water from your pool to not get filtered, but go directly out your backwash waste hose. This position is also handy if you are vacuuming up debris that you don't want in your pool or filter.